Chasing Ice and Battling Mother Nature in Iceland

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In certain parts of the world, Mother Nature reigns supreme. Places where the land was formed by explosions deep within the earth and shaped by the scrape of glaciers and the shake of earthquakes. Places where weather forecasts are only valid for 15 minutes; where miles and miles of land are uninhabited; and where ignoring Mother Nature can lead to serious disaster.

Iceland is one of these places.

Seljalandsfoss waterfall in Iceland

The Land of Fire and Ice is beautiful and its people friendly. But this volcanic island in the Atlantic can be quite sinister, too. Winter hurricanes blow out of nowhere. Strong currents make beautiful black sand beaches deadly. Volcanoes that are long overdue to erupt rumble gently. Mother Nature reigns supreme.

This is important to remember when traveling in Iceland – especially when traveling in Iceland in winter, when the weather can literally change in an instant and even the best-laid plans can be thwarted.

Day 1 of our “Chasing Ice” tour with Goecco started out great – we were picked up on time in Reykjavik by Jonas in his bright yellow, tricked-out Land Rover Defender, and then met up with the rest of our tour group in a beefy Ford van. We hit the road before the sun was fully up, bound for waterfalls, glaciers, black beaches, and ice caves.

Goecco Outdoor Adventures in Iceland

But as soon as we left the city, things began to go wrong. The van got a flat tire an hour outside of Reykjavik, which caused a detour to get it fixed and then to pick up more extra tires – just in case. Then Jonas told us that a hurricane-like storm was about to pound the south coast and that we might not be able to make it to our accommodation that night.

Travel enough in countries like Iceland, and you learn that you sometimes just have to go with the flow – especially when Mother Nature is involved.

Iceland landscape

Going with the flow in this case ended up working out well. Without having to rush to cross an Icelandic desert before dinnertime, we got to spend some extra time exploring the waterfalls and black sand beaches that make Iceland's south shore so famous.

We saw the “hidden” waterfall Gljúfrabúi, braved some icy steps to walk behind Seljalandsfoss, and stopped at the thundering Skogafoss all before a lunch.

Gljúfrabúi Waterfall in Iceland
Seljalandsfoss waterfall in Iceland
Behind Seljalandsfoss waterfall in Iceland
Skogafoss waterfall in Iceland

Even though the wind was blowing hard enough to impede walking by that point, we also stopped at Reynisfjara Beach to see its famous basalt columns, and at the plane crash on Sólheimasandur beach before dusk.

Reynisfjara beach in Iceland
Reynisfjara Beach

Columns at Reynisfjara beach

Plane crash on Sólheimasandur beach in Iceland

Plane crash on Sólheimasandur beach in Iceland

Along with getting in more sightseeing, spending more time on the road meant that we got to know our head guide, Jonas, a lot better, too. There were three of us plus a guide-in-training in the Land Rover with Jonas, and I got the coveted front seat on the first day.

Jonas, a native Icelander who spent a large chunk of his life in Denmark, is a character, to say the least. He is blunt and honest and swears like a sailor. He's not afraid to speak his mind on things like the changing face of tourism in Iceland, or the effects of climate change, which is causing Iceland's glaciers to retreat at an alarming rate.

Mýrdalsjökull glacier in Iceland

He's also a realist when it comes to Mother Nature and Iceland. A few years back, he bought a 40-foot boat and keeps it at the ready outside of Reykjavik – you know, just in case the “big one” goes off and he has to flee the island.

It's not actually all that crazy, either – volcanoes like Hekla (nicknamed “Gateway to Hell” in the Middle Ages) and Katla (“The Beast”) are both overdue for violent eruptions. And then there's Laki, which last erupted in 1783. That eruption killed a quarter of Iceland's people, and caused Europe to go “dark” for months – in fact, many Icelanders will tell you that the chain reaction caused by Laki eventually led to the beginning of the French Revolution.

As we rode past Eyjafjallajokull – the volcano that erupted and famously wreaked havoc on air travel back in 2010 – I shuddered involuntarily as the true potential of what lies under the surface in Iceland hit me.

Jonas' words rang in my ears: “It's not a matter of if – it's when.”

Iceland landscape

We thankfully didn't run into any volcanic eruptions on our tour – but we did run into plenty of twists thrown at us by Mother Nature. That night, Jonas and his crew deftly arranged lodging and a meal for us on the fly in the middle of nowhere in Iceland's off-season. I was impressed.

Normally on this tour, you stay overnight at an old converted school house where everyone pitches in to cook a homemade meal and get to know each other. But because of the high winds keeping us from the school house, we ended up eating arctic char at an IcelandAir hotel, and sleeping in some cute cabins in the middle of nowhere.

If only Mother Nature had thought to throw in clear skies for a viewing of the Northern Lights!

Day 2 of our “Chasing Ice” tour was where ice finally came into the picture. We started the day off at Jokulsarlon, the glacial lagoon where chunks of Iceland's massive Vatnajökull glacier break off and eventually float out to sea.

The lagoon had SO much ice in it – massive icebergs in varying shades of blue and white.

Jokulsarlon in Iceland

Jokulsarlon in Iceland

Jokulsarlon in Iceland

We had a little over an hour to explore the lagoon and nearby black sand beach while Jonas and crew went to pick up the gear we would need later for glacier hiking and ice caving.

Glacier ice beach in Iceland

Mother Nature would thwart us at least once more, though. Our first try at an ice cave beneath Iceland's largest ice cap ended in a dead end and a flooded blue-ice cave.

Ice cave beneath Vatnajokull glacier
Flooded ice cave. 🙁

Thankfully, though, our second try was more successful. We strapped on ice grippers, helmets, and head lamps and descended into a pitch-black ice cave. The cave was extra dark because of the black sand/ash that had been blown across the glacier the night before, but I think that made it even cooler.

Vatnajokull ice cave

Vatnajokull ice cave

Vatnajokull ice cave in Iceland

Jonas then decided to show Mother Nature what his Defender and tricked-out Ford Econoline van could do, and took us on a drive atop the glacier. We stopped for a short hike across the glacier and down into the remains of a collapsed ice cave.

It kind of felt like exploring the moon (you know, if the moon were made of ice).

Hiking on Vatnajokull in Iceland

Ice of the Vatnajokull glacier in Iceland

If one thing was hit home for me on this tour with Goecco, it's that you can never truly make plans when Mother Nature is involved. And, in Iceland, she is ALWAYS involved.

Overall, though, I was super impressed by the entire Goecco team AND the rest of the people in our group for doing such a fantastic job of rolling with the punches and making our tour as great as it possibly could be. If you want to go on a slightly wild adventure and get up close with ice in all its forms, this is the tour for you.

Amanda and Elliot in Iceland


WHAT: Goecco, a great tour company specializing in small-group adventure tours. Check out the 2-day tour that we did, their express tour from Reykjavik, or check out their family tours of Iceland.

WHEN: Ice cave tours generally run from November through April.

HOW MUCH: The 2-day tour starts at $790 USD per person.

WHAT'S INCLUDED: Transport and guides, overnight accommodation, dinner, and a guided glacier walk/ice cave adventure (if conditions allow).

WHAT TO PACK: Good hiking shoes and waterproof layers – check out a complete packing list here.

Has Mother Nature ever impacted YOUR travels in an extreme way?


Glaciers and Ice Caves in Iceland

Big thanks to Goecco for hosting us on this tour. But, as always, all opinions are 100% my own!

"It's a dangerous business, going out your door. You step onto the road, and, if you don't keep your feet, there's no telling where you might get swept off to." - JRR Tolkien

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36 Comments on “Chasing Ice and Battling Mother Nature in Iceland

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  1. I completely disagree with your review of Goecco. Completely unreliable and unprofessional company. Don’t give travelers false hopes of getting beautiful pictures much less an actual tour out of them unless you want their vacations RUINED.

      Sorry to hear that, Carol. I can only write about my personal experiences, and my experience with the company was great!

    Your information is so helpful and I love your website. Being a native Ohioian who loves to explore I am looking at visiting Iceland in November 2017 or March 2018. I know you can never predict weather but trying to consider the odds and determine which time has the best potential for activities as we’d also like to do the crystal ice caves and essentially the tour you outlined (and Goecco tours was a possible on the list). Wasn’t sure from your post… did you visit in January? Was there other activities you did that rose to the top of must do? thanks.

      We actually did this tour in November! This was in 2015, and winter was actually late coming to Iceland, meaning that the ice caves weren’t fully formed yet – the biggest one was still full of water and we couldn’t go inside. 🙁 So March might actually be a better time to go if you want to see ice caves!

      Other things I’d recommend include snorkeling the Silfra fissure, seeing the geysers in the Golden Circle, maybe hiking on a glacier, going horseback riding if you like horses, seeing the waterfalls and black sand beaches along the south coast, and touring the Snaefellsnes Peninsula. You can check out all of my Iceland content here:

    Wow!! What incredible photos! I love the pics of the lagoon. They remind me of my trip to Antarctica. Iceland is definitely a must.

      It’s definitely a must! I also need to get myself to Antarctica one of these days!

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