Edinburgh, Scotland, might be one of my favorite cities in the world. With its long history, magical architecture, and the sound of bagpipes and the scent of whisky wafting through the streets, Edinburgh really is unlike any other place I've been. And this is true any time of year!

I've been to Edinburgh at least 9 times (but possibly more; I've honestly lost count), visiting in every single season. And while I love Edinburgh during the long days of summer, I love it equally around the holidays, when the city transforms into a twinkly wonderland.

In the past, I've celebrated New Year's in Edinburgh, taking place in the raucous Hogmanay celebrations over the course of several days. But last year I decided I wanted to see the city in the slightly less-crazy pre-Christmas season, too. And so I took the train up from London for a few days of Scottish holiday magic.

Things to do for Christmas in Edinburgh

Edinburgh is a much smaller city than, say, London. So you can't really compare Edinburgh at Christmas to Christmas in London. But Edinburgh still has a lot of charm during the holidays, and plenty to do!

Edinburgh at Christmas is just as lovely as I imagined it would be, and here are my favorite things to do there during the festive season.

1. Browse the Edinburgh Christmas market

The city of Edinburgh puts on “Edinburgh Christmas” each year, which encompasses many of the things on this list. The most popular aspect of this holiday take-over of Edinburgh's city center is the traditional Christmas market that they set up in Princes Street Gardens.

There's actually two parts to this market; one part in East Princes Street Gardens, and one in West Princes Street Gardens.

The market in East Princes Street Gardens has 70+ stalls selling food, drinks, gifts, and more, along with iconic rides like the LNER Big Wheel (Ferris wheel) and the Starflyer set up next to the towering Scott Monument.

In West Princes Street Gardens directly below Edinburgh Castle you'll find the Festive Family Funfair with kid-friendly rides, illuminations, and even a station where you can write and send a letter to Santa.

This market area opens each year in mid-November and runs into the first week of January.

2. Go ice skating on George Street

George Street in the New Town transforms into its own winter wonderland, including an ice rink where you can rent skates and take to the ice. This rink is ticketed, and they offer kids' sessions, as well as adults-only late night skates.

3. Visit a pop-up Christmas bar

Right next to the ice rink on George Street, you can find the pop-up Polar Ice Bar, where the tables, chairs, and even glasses are carved entirely from ice. This spot IS a bar, but they also offer a few family-friendly sessions where you can bring the kids. They serve both alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks inside, and coats/gloves are provided upon entry so you don't get too cold.

Elsewhere in Edinburgh, there are also a few other pop-up Christmas bars, too. Last year I went to Tigerlily, which transforms its restaurant and bar space into a Christmas explosion of baubles and sparkles. Add in a menu of Christmas cocktails, and it was the perfect spot for holiday vibes. This year, they're adding festive holiday afternoon teas to the calendar, too!

4. Have a holiday afternoon tea

Speaking of festive afternoon teas… there are no shortage of them in Edinburgh! (Just be sure to book ahead.)

Places to try them include:

• Colonnades at the Signet Library – This is the most beautiful spot for afternoon tea in Edinburgh.
• Festive tea at The Witchery – Enjoy the dark literary tea of your dreams at this holiday afternoon tea enjoyed by candlelight.
• Tigerlily – Have a beautiful holiday-themed tea, or even have tea with Santa on select dates!
• Tea at The Scotsman Hotel – Their delightful afternoon tea gets a holiday upgrade each winter season.
• The Tea Rooms at Edinburgh Castle – Enjoy tea within the castle grounds, which has a festive twist all through December.
• Tea at Prestonfield House – Just past Holyrood park, Prestonfield House does a decadent holiday afternoon tea in their decorated historic rooms.
• Fingal Hotel – This floating hotel inside a historic ship in Leith goes all-out with its festive afternoon tea; it's absolutely stunning.

Looking for non-holiday attractions? Check this post for the best things to do in Edinburgh, or this one for a 3-days in Edinburgh itinerary.

5. Have dinner at The Dome

The restaurant called The Dome is famous in Edinburgh. They offer a festive afternoon tea here, too, but if you're going to make a booking at The Dome around the holidays, I really think it should be for dinner.

The Dome is located inside a stunning Georgian building from 1775 with towering columns both inside and out, marble bars, and intricate chandeliers. At Christmas time, they festoon the columns outside with lights and put up a massive Christmas tree in the center of the Grill Room beneath the dome that the place is named for.

You *can* come here for lunch or afternoon tea, but I personally think it looks the most magical at night.

And if you want to guarantee yourself a table with a view, you'll want to book in the Grill Room for dinner. They have both a set menu and an a la carte menu, along with some special festive drinks each year.

I was able to book a table for an early dinner just a couple days in advance, so if it's all booked up when you first look, keep checking. (You can also try to pop in for drinks on a walk-up basis, but you might have to wait in line outside for a while in order to get in.)

6. Go on a hot chocolate crawl

Okay, so this one isn't *technically* holiday-themed, but Christmas is certainly the time of year I'm most likely to savor a hot cup of cocoa. And Edinburgh has some truly excellent hot chocolate options! You could easily take yourself on a little hot cocoa crawl.

The must-visit hot chocolate spots in Edinburgh include:

• Coro the Chocolate Cafe – Enjoy a cozy mug of specialty hot chocolate alongside other tasty dessert treats.
• Moo Pie Gelato – This tiny ice cream shop just off the Royal Mile does excellent hot chocolate.
• Basement Gelato Co – Not far from the Johnnie Walker Experience, this spot uses a fully home-made recipe – AND has vegan options.
• The Marshmallow Lady – Near the Royal Botanic Garden, this spot is known for its huge, hand-made marshmallows that top its hot cocoa.
• Uplands Roast – This coffee trailer near The Meadows does a super decadent hot chocolate.

7. See Holyroodhouse decked out for the holidays

Edinburgh actually is home to two castles: Edinburgh Castle at the top of the Royal Mile (more of a military fortress) and Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom of the Royal Mile (the actual palace-feeling palace that the Royal family still uses).

Holyrood dons its Christmas decor around the holidays, including large Christmas trees, garlands, and more. They also host several festive events, and have a Christmas-inspired menu inside the cafe.

If you're only going to tour one castle in Edinburgh during the holiday season, I would make it Holyroodhouse.

8. Enjoy immersive light shows

There are two here worth mentioning in Edinburgh:

First, the Royal Botanic Garden does a “Christmas at the Botanics” display each winter, which is made up of illuminated trails, twinkling tunnels, and all sorts of pretty light displays. This is a nighttime-specific event, and there are some vendors along the way selling things like hot cocoa and marshmallows to toast.

The other is the “Castle of Light” display at Edinburgh Castle, which is a light projection experience on the castle walls. Along with the light show, there are also food vendors and fire pits to enjoy. Many people say the nighttime experience is more geared towards kids and families.

I will note that you can see a lot of the light projections on the castle from Princes Street Gardens, which might be enough for some people who don't want to head up to the castle after dark.

9. Go light-looking around the city

Lastly, there are plenty of lovely light displays and decorations to enjoy around Edinburgh. Some of my favorites include:

• The snowflakes and garlands strung up above Victoria Street
• A projected light display on the outside of The Johnnie Walker Experience
• Light display on The Huxley building
• The outside of The Dome
• You'll also find Christmas trees inside most hotels, and even inside St. Giles Cathedral

And of course you can still enjoy all the normal things to do in Edinburgh, too, including walking the Royal Mile, taking a Harry Potter tour, visiting museums, seeing the views from places like Calton Hill and Dean Village, going on a ghost tour, and more.

I like Edinburgh in any season, but it certainly has some extra charm around Christmas.

READ NEXT: What to Wear to Christmas Markets in Europe + Christmas Market Packing List

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Would you like to visit Edinburgh at Christmas?