I'm not a very adventurous eater.
I like the IDEA of being an adventurous eater, though, and so even if my stomach doesn't always appreciate it, I do try to push myself out of my comfort zone sometimes when it comes to food.
Reykjavik seemed like a great place to give myself one of those pushes.
Even though it's basically a Scandinavian country in nature, Iceland has some unique dishes that can both intrigue and disgust a person at the same time. And, while I wasn't brave enough to give the Hákarl (fermented shark) a try, I DID find the courage to try some other interesting dishes.
*Now here comes the caveat — Yes, I did eat some things in Iceland that are a bit controversial. If you're uncomfortable with that fact, feel free to stop reading now.
1. An Icelandic Gourmet Feast
I knew I wanted to try some different foods in Iceland. But even though you can find things like whale and puffin and other Icelandic delicacies on just about every menu in town (seriously, look at first photo in this post), I didn't want to spend a lot of money on a meal I might not even like.
Thankfully, though, I didn't have to. Before I left for Iceland, I was sent a list of links to some well-known restaurants in Reykjavik. One that caught my eye was called Tapas Barinn. Located in a great spot downtown and with an Icelandic “tasting menu” of local specialties in tapas form, it seemed like a no-brainer. I headed down there on my second night in Iceland, ready to dive into both the normal and the strange and challenge my stomach to keep up.
Here are my thoughts as I wrote them down as I worked my way through this tasting menu:
Brennivin
Often called “Black Death” by the locals, this spirit definitely packs a punch. I'm not much of a drinker (i.e. I don't really drink at all), but knew I had to at least take a sip of this spirit. It smells and tastes like black licorice, which I actually quite like. It burned a bit on the way down, but wasn't half bad. Granted, I'm sure I would have died if I'd taken the whole shot.
Icelandic Sea Trout
My tasting menu started with the trout, which was a great way to start the meal. The fish was cooked perfectly, with a deliciously crunchy skin that was seasoned just right.
Smoked Puffin
I still can't believe they eat these adorable birds in Iceland. I went back and forth over whether I'd try it or not, and finally decided to give it a go. Puffin are hunted annually in Iceland and the meat is served throughout the year — if I didn't eat it, someone else would. The dark meat was prepared quite rare (it's the brownish-purple stuff on the plate) and reminded me a bit of very salty duck. I don't really like duck, and so didn't care for the puffin at all.
Lobster Tails
OM NOM NOM. Easily my favorite tapas dish on this night. The meat almost fell out of the tails, and had just the right combination of garlic and butter on top. I was sad they only gave me 3.
Icelandic Lamb
I don't eat much lamb, but I was told by an Icelander that the lamb here is more “gamey” than in other countries. It did have a slightly more “wild” taste to it, but the gravy helped mask it. The lamb here was fairly tender, and I ate most of it.
Minke Whale
Here's where you'll all berate me and tell me I'm a terrible person. Yes, I ate whale. Iceland is one of the few countries in the world that still allows commercial whaling, though they do now have limits placed on how many whales can be caught each year. It's also worth noting that these minke whales are not endangered, and are hunted humanely. That being said, I thought whale meat was disgusting. It was sliced very thin and cooked very rare, and had a strange floppy, mushy texture to it that made me want to gag.
Pan-Fried Monkfish
The best part of this dish for me was the mashed potato side. Something about the consistency of the monkfish put me off — it was almost creamy and kind of sweet. It didn't taste much like seafood, and I wasn't really a fan.
Skyr Mousse
Very similar to Greek yogurt, Skyr is a popular breakfast, snack, and even dessert food in Iceland. The Skyr here was contained in a white-chocolate mousse and doused in passion fruit syrup. The mousse had a consistency almost like cheesecake, but wasn't very sweet. If not for the passion fruit sauce, I don't know if I would have cared for it much.
Seafood Galore
After my night of adventurous eating, I opted for something a bit safer the next evening. I met up with two Australian girls who had been on my Golden Circle tour the day before, and we headed down to the old harbor to find the Sea Baron. This little restaurant has a great story behind it — located in an old fisherman's hut on the harbor, the restaurant was started by fisherman/former Coast Guard chef Kjartan Halldórsson. Old silly photos of him line the walls, and the place has a very cozy feel to it. It feels like you're just having dinner at Kjartan's house.
It also serves up some of the freshest, most delicious seafood in Iceland.
The Sea Baron is known for its lobster soup, but also does a mean seafood kebab. You walk into the restaurant, take your pick of various raw kebabs on offer, and then they grill up your selection for you on the spot. We got salmon, redfish, shrimp, and scallops, along with potatoes and peppers — and it was all SO GOOD.
Iceland's Best Hot Dog
And, of course, no trip to Reykjavik could possibly be complete without a hot dog.
… Yes. A hot dog.
Down by the harbor, a little cart always has a huge line. This is Bæjarins beztu pylsur — which literally translates to “the best hot dog in town.” Operating since 1937, this little hot dog stand has also been named the best hot dog stand in all of Europe, and the hot dogs here are often referred to as “the Icelandic national food.” Clearly, it was worth trying.
On my last night in town, I sought out this stand and enjoyed a hot dog with all the fixin's — ketchup, sweet mustard, fried onion, raw onion and remolaði, a mayonnaise-based sauce with sweet relish. It was delicious; definitely the best hot dog I've ever eaten.
The Laundromat
And, while I didn't eat anything more adventurous than a caramel-filled muffin at this bar/cafe, The Laundromat on Austurstræti is just a really cool place to hang out in downtown Reykjavik. With a funky vibe, lots of color, and a diverse menu that even includes cannelloni, I went here 3 nights in a row, mostly just for the atmosphere. It was the type of place I didn't feel weird going into on my own, and I was always able to strike up a conversation with someone at a nearby table.
The Laundromat also offers free wi-fi and is friendly towards breast-feeding mothers (which they are very proud of and advertise prominently outside).
Reykjavik is known for its nightlife, but if you're like me and enjoy something a bit more low-key, I highly recommend The Laundromat!
What do you think of my eating escapades? Would YOU try some of these things in Iceland?
Good for you on trying the whale! Anyone who would call you a terrible person for doing so isn’t worthy of your attention.
Well I understand that whaling (and, by association, eating whale) is a touchy subject. I did debate with myself for a while over whether I would try it or not. If it hadn’t been on the tapas menu, I may not have. But since it was included, I figured why not?
Good work! I did try the Hákarl and it was beyond disgusting. That and a shot of Black Death made for a quick meal for me…
I understand the objections to whale and puffin, but each culture has their own traditions. Icelandic whaling gets the brunt of the negative attention now, but there are much more savage and wasteful hunting traditions in other countries.
Thanks for the entertaining post- I have been looking forward to this one! (I’d pay you back with an adventurous eating post in your beloved New Zealand, but they don’t have anything so unique as these dishes!)
There was no way I would have been able to keep the rotten shark down… lol. So I didn’t even try!
I’m glad you liked the post. And I agree with you about hunting traditions elsewhere being more wasteful — they just don’t get as much attention as whaling!
Great post! I had the hot dog too and loved it 🙂
I didn’t end up trying puffin or whale while in Iceland, but I was definitely interested/curious. Next time I go, I’m going to try that tapas – the presentation looks beautiful!
We brought back a bottle of Brennivin (stupidly) because we like collecting liqour from other countries…it’s barely been touched. Eeps.
I can’t recommend Tapas Barinn highly enough! Even if you don’t try any of the Icelandic dishes, they have fantastic food.
I thought about bringing some Brennivin back for my family and friends to try, but then I remembered that no one I know likes the taste of black licorice. Lol.
I have to say the puffin looks absolutely disgusting. Bravo to you for being able to stomach that!
Yeah, I did NOT expect the puffin to look/taste like that for some reason. It was gross from my perspective. Though, I talked to others who absolutely loved it!
I’m so impressed that you not only tried a lot of the Icelandic delicacies, but admitted to not really liking them!
I’m not ashamed to admit when I don’t like something! I figure no one can fault me as long as I actually try it!
Ooooo, some of these dishes look really yummy!!! The lobster and the trout look delectable! 😀
The lobster and trout were amazing — probably my 2 favorite things I ate in Iceland! (Though the Sea Baron salmon was also up there on my list…)
Monkey brains would be controversial .. Whale, not so much. That said, only the brännvin looked appealing.
Excellent review,though!
You’d be surprised… I got a couple not-so-nice tweets after mentioning on Twitter that I’d eaten whale. At least one person told me I should “educate myself” on the issue.
I will never look at a puffin the same way again! I can’t say I could stomach the whale or the puffin but when in Rome right?! Great photos 😉
Yes, when in Rome…
I would definitely never eat whale and puffin again, but I’m glad I at least tried them while there.
Awww…enjoyed reading about your culinary adventures in Iceland, although I was hoping you’d tried some of the hakarl…I need someone else to try it first so I can live vicariously through them….LOL!
I’ve talked to too many people who say it’s the most disgusting thing they’ve ever eaten… haha, I’m not brave enough!
Even the famous globe-trotting chef / food fan Anthony Bourdain (of Travel Channel & CNN fame) has said that hakarl is one of the the most disgusting things he’s ever tried to eat. And the man is definitely an adventurous eater.
Haha, yup! It’s not something I ever plan to put in my mouth…
Not much of a seafood fan either – the whale looks absolutely disgusting, haha. But I bet the lobster tails were amazing 🙂 I’d have a hard time in Iceland I think, since I am definitely not adventurous food-wise (well anything-wise, really), and I don’t like seafood.
At least they have hotdogs. 😛
Oh I’m sure you’d be fine! Yes, seafood definitely is quite a staple there, but there were plenty of international restaurants to choose from, too!
And yes, at least they have hot dogs. 😉
I was really looking forward to this post to see what you thought of the Icelandic food. I’m sorry you didn’t enjoy it very much. I talked to fellow Icelandic travelers about the puffin and whale before I went and also went back and forth as to whether I would try them. I actually ended up thoroughly enjoying both.
Good for you that you tried them, as well! I was actually expecting to like puffin, but it was definitely not my favorite. And the whale? Yuck. Then again, it probably didn’t help that I was picturing Free Willy as I was eating it…
I am an adventurous eater, but I quite agree with you about the whale. If it tasted wonderful, I could partially understand the Japanese and Icelanders getting all upset and arguing for their traditional ‘right’ to hunt, kill and eat whales.
But it tastes revolting.
I understand Japan has a lot of spare whale meat in freezers, more than anyone will ever want to eat, so their defiant attitude to whaling is apparently just about saving face.
I’m almost certain Iceland can earn more tourist dollars from whale watching than from whale eating. Correct me if I’m wrong.
I think you are probably absolutely right. However, changing practices that have gone on for centuries is easier said than done!
Glad I’m not alone in thinking the whale was gross though…
I think the idea of tasting a country’s special dishes in tapas form is the best idea ever. You get to try more different things as if you were eating one big meal and you don’t get too much of one thing you might not like. Seems like a ton of fish! The whale… I think it’s part of the local culture, so why not. However, I think the texture would gross me out.
Yeah, I was REALLY excited to find that Icelandic tasting menu at the tapas place. It was just what I was looking for (even if was really expensive). It would be perfect for 2 people to share — 6 tapas plus dessert is a LOT for one person to eat!
Hi Amanda,
It was great to meet you in Iceland! How good were the Lobster tails!! You forgot to mention how nice they were at the Sea Baron, giving us free potatoes when they forgot our food, and ‘moby dick’ – which was somehow worse then the fermented shark :S
Hey Sarah!!! So glad you stopped by! It was great to meet both you and Claire. I forgot all about “Moby Dick”!! Haha, so funny. And yes, they were super nice there.
And the lobster tails? TO. DIE. FOR.
Now I really want lobster tails! You can check out my blog if you like… Granted I’m a ‘bit’ behind, Finally posted about Christmas today 😛 I’ll get to Iceland eventually – it’s written, just need to type it up and put photos and stuff, but I want to do it in order, so got a few more hols to write up and post first!
http://ausinuk.blogspot.co.uk/
Feel free to follow 🙂
Awesome, I will check it out!
I’d actually read in a few places that most Icelandic people don’t eat whale meat… It’s mostly hunted for tourists? I work a lot in northern Canada and they eat it up there sometimes, so it doesn’t bother me for ethical reasons, but I’d just heard that Icelandic people encourage tourists not to eat it. Haven’t done much research on it to be honest.
I’m also very unadventerous in the eating department, and neither my boyfriend or I like seafood. We were going to try to push ourselves to try some sea food there though, since it’s so fresh. Those lobster tails look pretty good, I have to admit! I like the tapas idea, but wish we could get a fish only one! Can’t wait to try this skyr stuff, big yoghurt fan. And the hot dogs!
Anyways, the timing of your trip was great for me! Your posts in the last week have been making me increasingly excited. Thanks!
I feel like there probably IS some truth to the fact that the whale meat in Iceland is marketed more toward tourists than local. However, historically I’m sure plenty of whale was eaten by locals in Iceland, too!
The tapas were SO good. I’d highly recommend going there when you’re in Reykjavik (they had a huge menu, including plenty of non-fish dishes!).
I don’t know, you sound pretty brave to me! Even though some of those dishes don’t sound stellar to me, I think it’s good you tried them–so much of experiencing a new place is experiencing their culture, and that includes food. But you’re not the first person I’ve heard say whale is disgusting, so I now know to pass on that one in the future 🙂
I’m glad I tried all of these (and I really liked most of the seafood!). I agree that a big part of any culture is the food, so I’m glad to see most people agreeing with my decisions in Iceland!
Great post. I think I would hesitate, too, about the whale meat and puffin — even more so now that I’ve read your descriptions. But, like you, I probably would try them while in Iceland. Though putting those bites of meat in my mouth would be hard…
I wonder how my opinions would change if I had loved both of them… haha.
Yum! Everything looks delicious! Hopefully, you’ll keep your adventurous eating streak going 🙂
I certainly hope to keep it going!
I’m not sure I would’ve tried most of the things you did. I like trying new things, but I definitely know my gross-out limits. I was very curious to hear about the food in Iceland though, so glad you shared this one!
Honestly, if not for this blog, I probably wouldn’t have tried as much! But I knew people were really curious about the food there, so I felt like I had to deliver!
After our pricey restaurant experiences in Norway I’m wondering how Iceland compares? This tapas all looks delicious and what a great way to try several different types of exotic dishes without committing to one plate of something you may not fancy. We had a hot dog here in Stavanger the other day too and it was amazing, haha =)
Who knew Scandinavia had such delicious hot dogs? Lol.
As for prices, Iceland, too, is quite pricey! That whole tapas meal (6 tapas, a shot of brennivin, and dessert) was 5,890 Icelandic krona, or about $46 USD. Definitely expensive for just one person, but I suppose it would be pretty reasonable if you were splitting the meal with another person.
Glad to know there are others out there who like the IDEA of being an adventurous eater, but who aren’t so much of one in reality! I’m also one of those who doesn’t dig seafood, so going someplace like Iceland seems like a no-can-do simply because of the food. Maybe I’ll get over there one of these days despite the food thing and hope for the best. In any case, good for you for giving those most unappetizing-looking things a try!
Oh, there are plenty of non-seafood places in Iceland, too. (Plenty of ethnic restaurants, as well as burger joints, for example.) I just happen to love seafood, so I had no problem eating a lot of it!
Amanda,
I like everything about this post. Like you, I don’t get really adventurous when eating. I mean I like to try food from other countries but not different animals or insects. In a case like this (Iceland), I would definetly visit this restaurant. Thanks for the tip. The pictures are amazing.
Thanks, Ruth! Glad to see my foray into semi-adventurous eating is getting so much love!
I love trying new foods. Whale doesn’t sound terribly appetising, but I am tempted by puffin 🙂 Well done on going for it all 😀
I’ve only gotten more adventurous with foods in the past couple of years — and I’m sure traveling more has a lot to do with that. Still wasn’t quite brave enough to try rotted shark though! Lol.
This was really, really interesting to read. Usually food posts don’t do a lot for me, but I don’t know anything about Icelandic food so this was super educational. For that first meal – how much is 6 ikr in dollars?
Awesome to hear that, Christy! I don’t usually do food posts on my site, but I know a lot of people were curious about the food in Iceland. I’m glad the post has been interesting for so many people!
And that first tapas meal was about $46 USD. Definitely not cheap, but worth it, I’d say. Plus, there was enough food to probably share between 2 people if you really wanted to.
And I thought I was the adventurous eater.. I eat a Puffin cereal back home – does that count? LOL. Probably couldn’t do whale, but I’d go for that lobster tail any day!
And the funny thing is, I’m usually NOT a very adventurous eater! Just goes to show what I’ll do for my blog. 😉
Wow, I can’t believe you ate so much at that tapas bar! I don’t know if I’d be able to eat the puffin, they’re just too cute. Good for you to try though, I still wish I had tried a zebra steak while I was in Namibia.
Cheers!
Andy
Haha, I only ate about half of it! It was way too much food, and I also couldn’t stomach more than a few bites of the puffin and whale before I gave up.
Zebra steak sounds interesting… I might try it. But I dunno. They do have Icelandic horse on the menu in Iceland (though you do kind of have to search for it), but I couldn’t bring myself to eat my favorite animal!
I went to Iceland in August and felt much like you–that I needed to try some of the foods that I wouldn’t ordinarily try. I wasn’t adventurous enough to go for the Hákarl, or horse for that matter, but I did try a bite of everything else. I didn’t care for the whale.. at all. To be honest, I didn’t care for most of their traditional foods/drink, except Skyr (wish I could find an equivalent in the States; even the stuff from Whole Foods isn’t nearly as good)! Luckily, Iceland’s got enough of a variety of seafood, hotdogs, and “Cool American” Doritos, so I made it. 🙂
The “Cool American” Doritos cracked me up!! You sound a lot like me… I wasn’t a big fan of most of the traditional food I tried, either, but I’m still glad I tried it.
Hi there!
I don’t know how i came to this site but I am glad I did. I am Icelandic and want to say something about Icelandic whaling.
I eat whale and love minke whale stake like almost everyone I know. Many things you read about whaling is so far from the truth and just for example we are 320.000 in whole Iceland and Sea Shepherd has 380.000 fans on facebook so go figure were almost everyone get the information from.
In the Icelandic EEZ (200miles) we have over 500.0000 whales and we hunt 52 a year and its local commercial whaling we do not sell minke whale out of the country. All of it ends up in Iceland.
We have been eating whale since we came to the island in 874 and an old saying is Hvalreki that means a whale that swim to the beach as a free food so Hvalreki means to get lucky. The oldest law we get on whaling is since 1261.
Whale meat is one of the healthiest meat you can put in your body. Low on fat and a lot of protein as seen here http://luna.pos.to/whale/jwa_v8_suzu.html
I will not tell a tourist to eat whale meat as I dont know were they stand on whaling. I dont want to be unrespecful and offer them something they dont want to eat. But if they do then fine. There is nothing wrong eating whale and dont get me wrong I love whale and think they are nice to have around and I will not eat the last whale. They are cute and they are big but for me they are food source like chicken, pigs, sheeps and cows and they are factory making them. Good to see so many comments from people with open mind and go with their gut feeling on the matter not what is forced up on them by others. Thank you!
Thank YOU, Sjon, for your unique Icelandic perspective! I did wonder how much whale was eaten regularly by Icelanders, so I’m glad you answered that question! I don’t think I’ll ever like whale the way that you do, however, but I am still glad I tried it.
Hi Sjon,
Great comment! I went to Iceland, and met Amanda there – do you mind if I copy some of what you said here in my blog? http://ausinuk.blogspot.co.uk/ I don’t get nearly as much traffic as Amanda, most of my viewers are family and friends, but it would be good to have that ‘insiders view’. 🙂
Dear Amanda,
I am glad you dont feel bad about trying it and I know the feeling of people looking at you like you did something wrong because you eat whale. If you respect nature and its surroundings, respect the hunt of animals and you know that McDonald’s does not come flying from haven then I have to say I am proud of knowing were my food comes from and how its made and what I am putting into my body.
Dear Sarah,
Yes of course you can copy it!
I hope you both had a wonderful time in Iceland and it left many good memories of my country and the people you met.
Oh yes I saw something on this site about elves we do believe in them yes and I know many people that i really respect that have told me they have seen one, and who i am I to question that. We call them huldufolk http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hulduf%C3%B3lk or hidden people. My Grandmother had few friends that nobody else saw 🙂
Thanks Sjon,
I definitely had a great time in Iceland – probably my best holiday so far!! I especially loved diving the Silfra, sooo beautiful, but so is the rest of Iceland really 🙂
I love your line about McDonalds not flying from heaven – very true!
And I’m actually going to publish a post about the hidden people next week on my blog! It was so interesting to hear stories about them while I was there.
Hi Sjon,
thanks for letting me have you insight on my blog – I’ve FINALLY written up my Iceland posts – check out my food tour here: http://ausinuk.blogspot.co.uk/2012/06/amazing-iceland-food-tour.html
If I could get all those options gluten-free, I would be trying everything. Thank you for posting this, Iceland is on my list and I’m hoping I can make it in a couple of years.
I just found your blog and I’m enjoying reading your post, looking forward to reading about your future adventures.
First of all, welcome to the blog! Secondly, it’s great to hear that Iceland is on your list! It’s a very unique country to visit. Can’t really say much about gluten-free food, though, but I’m sure you can find it!
[…] callaloo soup before Trinidad & Tobago, sushi and sashimi before your vacation to Japan, or smoked Arctic Puffin before you wing your way to Iceland, making a signature dish of the place your visiting is a great […]
I have to say I’m quite shocked by how many people here are applauding you for trying whale meat. I will admit that I have read the claims that minke whale is sustainably caught in Iceland and while I am skeptical I haven’t done any research to disprove this. Still, whaling on a global level (even with the very few countries that take part) is HIGHLY unsustainable. So I think I would use the same argument people use about visiting consenting, adult prostitutes- sure, in that specific case maybe you’re not committing a crime, but you are supporting a deeply corrupt and damaging industry. For example, Iceland has been accused of exporting endangered whale meat (fin whale) which violates every international agreement on this matter.
I will be visiting Iceland this month and plan to both visit a whaling center and go on a whale watch to try to do some of my own research and write a fairly balanced post on the topic. But lets be real- I’m a scuba-diving ocean-loving hippie… I already know what side of the issue I come down on! 🙂
I was honestly surprised by the support I got on this post, too. I was expecting more reactions like yours — which I totally understand. I’m not going to get into the whaling debate (because, regardless of our opinions, I’m quite sure they aren’t going to change!), but I’d love to read your post once you publish it!
Amanda, I disagree! (About our opinions not mattering because they won’t lead to change.) I think people really can make a difference. There is a lot of international pressure being put on Iceland right now over this issue (Obama has even issued personal requests to their government to stop the practice) and with tourism dollars being so valuable, I think a boycott of whale meat along with explanations why could make a huge impact. Either way I think its important to stand up for those who can’t speak for themselves.
I meant that, individually, between you and I, our viewpoints aren’t likely to change, no matter how much we talk about it. 🙂 But yes, in the grand scheme of things, people definitely can make a difference.
[…] I didn’t go quite that far on my trip, I wanted to try an array of typical Icelandic foods. Amanda from A Dangerous Business wrote about her adventures with traditional Icelandic foods and mentioned Tapas Barinn, a tapas restaurant in Reykjavik that happens to feature an Icelandic […]
I lived in Tokyo, Japan for most of the 1960s and part of the 1970s. Whale meat was not so controversial back then and I ate it often in the summer when it was served as sashimi, raw, semi-frozen, thinly sliced, and dressed with soy sauce and wasabi. It may have been politically incorrect but, it was delicious.
I can’t say that sounds good (lol), but it’s funny how things change, isn’t it?
Thank you for the write-up of the Icelandic food – I will try the Tapas restaurant when I’m in Reykjavik – do you think I will feel out of place or uncomfortabel when I go there on my own (alone)?
You are welcome! And no, I don’t think you’ll feel out of place on your own. I was alone when I went there!
Ugh how could you eat that hot dog. So disgusting.
S
Hahaha. It was delicious!
Dear Michael,
LOL, What is disgusting about the hot dogs? They are basically made the same way as an American hot dog except they include lamb. Lamb is not disgusting at all but is rather one of the most consumed meats in the world.
Haha, I think he was joking, Charlie, considering all the other weird things I ate!
I think you are right, I apologize Michael, although the dogs are in a natural casing (intestine) which makes them even better in my opinion. The casing is what gives them that delightful snap right before your mouth is filled with the delightful goodness of melted animal fat. Yummy!!
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