Milford Sound: Eighth Wonder of the World?

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The day began early.

Before 6 a.m., in fact, as myself and two travel buddies were picked up by a taxi and groggily deposited in downtown Queenstown in order to catch the bus that would take us to Milford Sound for the day.

Milford Sound (really not even aptly named, as it’s actually a fjord – or fiord as the kiwis spell it – and not a sound at all) is New Zealand’s most well-known tourist destination. It’s a gorgeous fjord on the west coast of the country’s south island that you can sail through on ferry boats or hike around, rain or shine.

Mostly, it’s rain, as Milford sees upwards of 6,800 mm of rain per year – that’s more than 265 inches! Our bus driver actually told us that the Sound sees less than 150 rain-free days per year.

Somehow, Jamie, Andrea and I had managed to hit one of these 150 days.

Driving the Milford Road

The sun was just painting the mountains pink as we boarded our Milford Select bus in Queenstown and hit the road. By the time we were nearing the town of Te Anau to pick up some more passengers, the sky was turning a pale blue as the sun continued climbing.

From Te Anau, we hit the famous Milford Road.

The Milford Road winds through Fiordland National Park, one of the most stunning bits of rugged New Zealand countryside and coast. Our bus driver regaled us with local stories and legends of the area as we traveled, and kept wondering at our good fortune with the weather. He said it had been a long time since he’d taken a group out on such a perfect, sunny day.

We stopped at the Mirror Lakes not long after Te Anau, where the mountains are (on good days) reflected perfectly in a handful of still ponds. The fog from the morning hadn’t completely lifted from the little valley when we arrived, however, so the true beauty of the Mirror Lakes was perhaps lost on us.

Our bus wound in and around increasing amounts of mountains, some made of ridiculously tough stone that had been carved out by glaciers. Most of them in this part of the country were still snow-capped in mid-October, and were therefore rather dazzling in the morning sunlight.

Our driver stopped a few times to point out mountain streams and waterfalls, great views, and even some kea birds – the world’s only alpine parrots – in the Hollyford Valley.

We also stopped at a little stream, where our driver encouraged us to fill up our water bottles with what he called the clearest, purest mountain-stream water. Andrea, despite her freakout about parasites a few weeks earlier when Jamie had dipped into a clear stream, filled her water bottle with the ice-cold water. Jamie and I each scooped up a handful, and I’ll agree that it was delicious. Our driver told us there was a legend that anyone who drank from that stream would live to be 102.

I’m holding him to that.

Rocking my best Gollum impression here.

Getting to Milford Sound took nearly five hours, and I think we were all fairly thankful to stretch our legs at last and set eyes upon the famous Mitre Peak at the head of the Sound. We were encouraged to take a short walk up into the nearby hills for a good view before our boat was set to sail.

Sailing Milford Sound

Half an hour later, we were boarding the small, relatively uncrowded Milford Adventurer. Andrea, Jamie and I headed straight for the bow of the boat, and were warned that we stood a chance of getting wet on the way out thanks to a rather strong wind that was blowing inland. I didn’t really care, but as soon as we got underway and the spray starting flying, Andrea and Jamie retreated indoors.

I stayed out front for a good portion of the ride out, chatting with a few other study abroad students from Christchurch. We marveled at the mountain waterfalls, and the lush, green rainforests that clung to the sides of the mountains, soaring over 1,200 meters above our heads.

It’s not hard to imagine why writer Rudyard Kipling once called Milford Sound the “eighth wonder of the world.”

As we cruised out to the Tasman Sea and back again, one of the boat crew told us that, on rainy days, the mountains are just covered in waterfalls plunging into the Sound. I could imagine that being pretty spectacular, too, though I was secretly really glad for dry conditions.

We passed by Lady Bowen Falls (one of the waterfalls that’s always present in Milford, no matter the weather), saw a few seals sunning themselves on a rock, and were taken virtually right underneath Stirling Falls. We got a bit damp, but I really didn’t mind too much.

Our cruise through the Sound lasted about an hour and a half, and I suppose I can understand why it’s such a popular destination. However, nothing could compare to what we were about to do next…

Flying back from Milford Sound

On our way to the Sound, our bus driver had mentioned that the other transportation option to and from Milford was by scenic flight – either by plane or helicopter. He quoted prices (which were pretty outrageous – over $500 for some of them), but then mentioned that if he got enough interest for the ride back, he could probably talk the price down considerably with Glenorchy Air.

Jamie, Andrea and I hadn’t really even considered this option, until, right as we disembarked our cruise, he told us that he could get us a flight back for under $200. Still expensive, I know, but the price coupled with the perfect day made it sound very appealing. Plus, it meant we didn’t have to ride five hours back the way we’d come on a tour bus.

We decided to throw our bank accounts to the wind, and sign up for the “flightseeing” tour.

We were dropped off at the Milford airport, which was so minuscule that I don’t think it can really be considered an airport at all. It consisted of one short runway, and a collection of small fixed-wing planes. Our pilot – a tall, lanky man with salt-and-pepper hair – was busy physically pushing our little airplane into takeoff position.

It was into that small plane (a Cherokee SIX 300, to be exact) that we were soon clambering, along with a young mother and her two kids. Jamie got to sit up front with the pilot, with Andrea and I right behind her and the family in the back. And that was the small plane’s full capacity – 7 people, two of them being kids.

Before then, I had never been in a plane so tiny; it was both exciting and terrifying at the same time. The terrifying factor was probably compounded by the life vests we were required to wear…

About to fly back to Queenstown!

Once we got into the air, our flight was nothing short of breathtaking. The course our pilot took flew us right over top of the Sound to begin with, and then looped back around over the Southern Alps for most of the flight. The snow-capped peaks were mesmerizing in the afternoon sunlight, and you could see literally for miles – miles and miles of mountains.

I fell in love with New Zealand all over.

We flew over crystal-clear mountain lakes, and even past a waterfall – Browne Falls – high up in the range. It’s actually the tenth-tallest waterfall in the world, and I still have a hard time believing we were lucky enough to see it. Actually, I have a hard time believing we actually took this perfect, gorgeous flight at all.

After perhaps half an hour of coasting over the mountains, one end of long, serpentine Lake Wakatipu came into view.

The lake, in the shape of a long, skinny “S,” has an interesting Maori legend behind it.  The legend goes that a giant named Matau kidnapped the daughter of one of the local chiefs and ate her (or something like that). He laid down to sleep that night, and a brave youth from the tribe set him on fire, burning him where he lay. His outline formed the shape of Lake Wakatipu, which, in Maori, means “Hollow of the Giant.” Today, Glenorchy sits at Matau’s head, Queenstown on his knee, and Kingston at his feet. The waters of the lake rise and fall up to 12 centimeters every few minutes, and this is said to be caused by Matau’s still-beating heart.

We were flying over the Glenorchy end of the lake, and it was a deep, royal blue beneath the plane’s wings, with snow-tipped mountains serving as a backdrop against the blue sky.

None of us could stop snapping pictures. The whole flight, Andrea and I would swap cameras every few minutes in order to get shots on both sides of the plane.

All too soon, we glided over Queenstown itself, and touched down at the small airport. We took some photos outside the plane, and thanked our Glenorchy Air pilot thoroughly for an amazing flight.

To this day, I quote this flight as possibly my favorite experience in New Zealand. It just goes to show you that, sometimes, the impulsive things we do while traveling can turn out to be some of the best.

And as for Milford Sound being the eighth wonder of the world? Well, it just might be.

PRACTICAL INFO

Want to plan your own trip to Milford Sound from Queenstown? Check out this full-day tour to Milford (summer only).

READ NEXT: The Best Way to Visit Milford Sound: From Wanaka!

Have you ever been to Milford Sound? What did you think?

 

"It's a dangerous business, going out your door. You step onto the road, and, if you don't keep your feet, there's no telling where you might get swept off to." - JRR Tolkien

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30 Comments on “Milford Sound: Eighth Wonder of the World?

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  1. I love, love, loved this post. What an amazing experience–and how lucky that you got a flight in the end! Your photos of New Zealand are so very gorgeous… I want to go there so badly!

      Aw, thanks so much, Emily! Yes, I’m glad we decided to be spontaneous and go for the flight; it was amazing!

      If ever you have the chance to get to NZ, do it!! It’s even prettier than all the pictures.

    Wow, what a great experience. We saw Doubtful Sounds but not Milford, which was still incredible. I can’t even imagine that flight, WOW, how amazing looking. You definitely made the right choice in biting the bullet and bucking up for it. Great post with some fantastic pictures!

      Doubtful Sound is definitely on my “next time” list. I’ve heard it’s even better than Milford, if for the simple fact that it’s less-touristed. Though, honestly, my Milford experience was awesome, so I have no complaints!

      The flight was definitely the best part, though!

      Thanks for reading and commenting.

    Fantastic post, beautiful pictures!!! I’ve been seeing lots of flightseeing posts lately for both NZ and Australia and after all this (esp. yours!) kind of regret not doing one of these at least once.

    Oh well, reason to go back!!!

      Reason to go back indeed! I hadn’t even considered a flightseeing tour originally because of the quoted price (our flight could have easily cost upwards of $500), but once it got discounted so much, and since it was such a beautiful day… well it was impossible to say no! And I’m so glad we didn’t.

    There aren’t enough words are there to describe the NZ scenery!
    From the ground it’s incredible… but those photos you have from the air…. truly spectacular 🙂
    And yes – Rudyard Kipling proposed Milford Sound as the eighth wonder too (although I’ve never quite worked out when in his travels he went there 🙂

      You’re right — there aren’t adjectives and superlatives strong enough to really capture New Zealand. Even photos don’t do it justice, as far as I’m concerned! But I’m glad you enjoyed this post and these photos. I had such a great day for this adventure!

    Really enjoyed reading this post! I’m headed to New Zealand in less than a month and can’t wait to see Milford Sound! Would you recommend the bus tour you took (Milford Select?)? I’m hoping to possibly rent a car with other travelers I might meet and explore the road to Milford that way, but just in case I would love to know about the best bus tours. Was the sailing part of a package with the bus or separate? Thank you! Such an amazing flight you had too…will keep that in the back of my mind…. =D

      Thanks, Heather! Milford Sound is great, and I’m sure you’ll love it.

      The tour I took included the bus ride, as well as the boat tour. And Milford Select was indeed good. Though if you can drive yourself, that would also be great, so you can stop wherever you like along the way!

      I can also highly recommend Real Journeys for tours from Queenstown or Te Anau. They do tours to both Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound (like Milford, but much less-visited). I did a day tour from Queenstown with them to Doubtful Sound, and it was fantastic.

    Looks amazing! I’m heading off to the south island in about a week and a half, and I’m still trying to work it out! I know both are completely different experiences, but if you had to choose between the two, would you rather have gone to Milford Sound or Franz Josef Glacier? Stupidly I booked my flights without thinking about what I was going to do in NZ and I only have enough time for one now…

      Oh no! That’s a really tough choice. I might lean towards Franz Josef, but only if you’re planning to do a glacier hike. If you’re just going to have a look, then I’d pick Milford.

    Such awesome pictures! In your post you mentioned “As we sailed above the silent peaks, I found myself realizing how much the helicopter ride I’d taken the day before paled in comparison.”

    Which helicopter ride were you referring to? I am planning to go to NZ soon, with my parents, and I think they would appreciate rides more than hikes, so I am considering these. Thank you

      Thanks, Budi!

      In Queenstown, I did a short helicopter flight up into the mountains. I booked a combo that included jetboating and the helicopter ride over Queenstown. It was quite cool, though that flight from Milford was just out of this world!

    […] before. Back in 2008, I booked a bus trip from Queenstown, which is the most popular way to visit Milford Sound. But it also takes the longest. Driving the epic Milford Road takes nearly 5 hours one-way from […]

    I would LOOOOVE to do the flight for our NZ trip but the cost 🙁 For under $200 I would!! 🙂 I guess we’ll have to cross our fingers that we get offered such a deal!

      I know it’s expensive, but… it really is worth it!! 😉

    I couldn’t agree more with all of this! Milford Sound is staggeringly beautiful! Sailing alongside these rugged cliff faces, looking up at the lush foothills of the mountains is an unforgettable experience. It really does seem like something right out of one of Tolkien’s novels! When the soft cloak of white fog descends on the landscape it reminds me of the misty mountains. I was also blown away by the beauty of the surroundings in both the sun and the rain. When the day cleared up, I looked down on where I had just been from the cabin of a helicopter. Seeing this spectacular landscape from two different viewpoints of such excellence allowed me to truly appreciate the beauty of this destination.

      I definitely agree that seeing Milford Sound from both the water and the air is the way to go!

    Hi! 🙂 Love love love all the beautiful photos you took from this trip!

    My family of 7 (5 adults and 2 kids, ages 6 & 10) are planning to see Milford Sound this June 27, 2017.

    Where did you book your trip? Did you originally book Coach – Cruise – Coach? For how much? I tried booking online the Coach – Cruise – Fly option through cruisemilfordnz.com but then the price quote was super pricey.

      I don’t remember the exact company we used (I did this trip almost 10 years ago!), but yes, we originally booked coach-cruise-coach. I’m not sure how likely it is to get offered a flight back – we just got lucky that there were some empty seats on a flight going back to Queenstown that they were willing to offer to us at a discount. I wouldn’t count on that with 7 people, though! If you really do want to fly back, I would just book that to begin with. It’s not a cheap outing, but I do think it’s worth it!

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